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Breton Humors
Breton Humors


dance Letters from London dance

August 2000
Liam's

Letter from London

London boozers and more...

When I first came to London in the early 1960s I was attracted by the manner in which Londoners gave you the space to be yourself. It could be interpreted on one hand as being cold and inhospitable but I was mesmerised by the openness and the pure disregard of my fellow citizens towards what I was getting up to.  I had newly travelled from Dublin where everybody appeared to telling you what to do, from the dictates of the Catholic Church to the curiosity of neighbours and family. It was difficult to find an open space in Dublin whereas London was frightening and anonymous and seemingly uncaring. 

I remember travelling up the tube escalators and being fascinated by the pure boldness and sexuality of the advertising posters. There was an energy and purpose and people seemed to be imbued with a direction and taste for living. I found the glory and beauty of Hampstead heath and as I walked down from Golders Green Park I loved the paintings for sale on the railings. I took a deckchair and sat listening to the band playing the melodies of the day and sipped my tea and nibbled my cake and thought; this is it son, I've cracked it. I only lasted seven weeks on my first trip to London. I was ill prepared and a bit lost, but the magic of the city had left its mark and issued a welcome to return when I was stronger.

I did return some years later and found it as exciting and intriguing as promised. London was full of areas and sections and some say villages. Some parts were grand and orderly with magnificent architecture and pretty garden squares to ornament and entertain. Other areas of London were down at heel and the abode of the workingman but even here there was a colour and vibrancy. Some of the pubs in these parts would open their doors on a weekend night and allow the music of a tingling piano and an accompanying voice fall out to the street and make it party time for all. On the whole they were simple people working hard and enjoying a few pints of that strange invention, English bitter, to wash away the cares of a fast living city.

I came across my only case of violence when I was coming out of Victoria station in the mid 60s. I was walking up the steps from my train when I was rugby tackled from behind. I had never seen this character before and had been minding my own business and causing no offence. I ran out into station concourse and there were two of the old type policemen, well up to six foot tall and built accordingly. I told them what had happened and immediately they drew their batons and asked me to show them my attacker. We had a good look around but there no sign of him and the coppers said not to worry and we went our ways. In all my over thirty years of living in London that is all that has happened to me and even though it can get a spot tasty at times. The Gods have smiled and I have been, as they say, all right.

I have drank all over London from the old world charm of Hampstead and Highgate to the rougher areas of Tooting and Dalston. I was usually with Dave, my flatmate and drinking companion, and we appeared to develop a good instinct and moved on if the vibes were not right in any particular watering hole.

We discovered some great pubs and I will mention some that a connoisseur might consider checking out. The Churchill in Kensington Church Street has a charm of its own with leaden windows, an array of clutter and great style. It has a very nice drop of Fullers ales and if the ESB (extra strong bitter) does not bring you round you are in trouble. The Flask in Hampstead is a Young's pub with great presence and has a wonderful soothing atmosphere with a stimulation of the unusual. You will meet the odd zany character and surprises are always threatened

The William Morris in Hammersmith is a new arrival but very quickly made up ground. The drink is very reasonably priced and it is very clean with good food always available. You will find a nook or cranny to hide away and observe the broad range of people who avail of this gem and it is the 'ordinary' mans drinking club. Avoid Saturday afternoons when the football supporters act the yob for a couple of hours. The Warrington in Maida Vale is a cathedral of a pub with glorious murals and a conviviality to melt any heart. The Australian bar staff bring a freshness of attitude and they are happy to satisfy the deepest thirst.

London is as fickle as the English weather. One minute you are in grandeur and opulence then when you walk round the corner its spilt dustbins and sprayed graffiti. Location is all important and you will pay an extra fifteen thousand pounds on the price of your flat for having the correct postal code. Londoners like to live in layers with each category paying homage to the next up the social scale. If you are Irish you can sometimes flit across the class devide. The English are never quite sure how to categorise us so we can chance taking liberties with a bit of the craic and blarney. 

Poem of the Month

The Emigration Trains

A pound-note was the best kind of passport

In those days, so I held my pound tightly

After my mother turned away. Idlers

Waved farewell from Ferrybank corners.

There was nothing heroic about my

Going, nothing like a political; destiny-

I'd just wasted a summer standing round

Until a job came upon the Underground.

I felt like a vagrant, destitute, until

At Waterford station I realised

My good luck: I owned a suitcase of card

While others carried mere bundles of cloth.

At Kilkenny every carriage was filled

To the door. One mother's last grip held fast

Despite the moving train, the rising glass.

For some it was the last touch of a child.

There was nothing pathetic about this;

Even the suffering Jews had kept a brave face.

We had our own state: a place to leave from-

Now the emigrant ship was like a big town:

That night it was Clonmel or Cappoquin,

With bars open, arguments outdoors

And politics racing through bleak corridors.

We were heading for England and the world

At war. Neutrality we couldn't afford.

I thought I would spend two years away

But in the end the two became twenty.

Within hours we'd reached the junction at Crewe

And sample powdered eggs from the menu,

As well as doodlebugs falling nearby;

All that fatal traffic of an alien sky.

I was so raw and Irish at the time

        They said that shamrocks grew out of my ears.

I wasn't alone with my homesick mind:

When we sailed into Holyhead our tears

Made a pathetic sea. One labourer's voice

Rose out of the ship, like a skylark's,

Singing Kevin Barry, Kevin Barry.

His song became our night-cry at the dock.

 Thomas McCarthy

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